Antique Jewellery Collection

Identifying a genuine piece of antique jewellery comes down to a few key criteria. Start with the hallmarks: British pieces carry a dated assay office mark (anchor for Birmingham, leopard's head for London), while French gold bears the Eagle's head for 18-carat and the Owl mark for imports. Art Deco platinum pieces frequently display a maker's mark from a named house — Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Mauboussin or Boucheron. A 10× loupe is all you need to read these discreet marks engraved inside a ring shank or on a necklace clasp.

In terms of style, antique enamel and gold brooches from the Belle Époque are distinguished by their delicate floral motifs and millegrain-set stones, while Art Deco jewellery favours geometric lines, onyx-and-diamond contrasts and platinum mounts. Victorian pieces, often in 15-carat yellow gold, draw on cameos, mourning hair-work and jet as a stone of sentiment.

When assessing condition, check the integrity of the prongs, the absence of clumsy re-soldering and the soundness of clasps. A well-executed period restoration does not diminish an antique piece, provided it is disclosed and documented. Always ask the seller for a gemmological certificate for significant stones — diamonds, rubies or unheated sapphires — issued by a recognised laboratory such as GIA or HRD. Explore our curated selection of antique diamond rings for some of the finest examples available.

Prices range from a few dozen pounds for a silver antique ring to tens of thousands for a signed parure by a grand maison. On Antiquités en France, our professional dealers support you at every step — macro photography, certificates, dimensions and personalised advice before purchase. Browse our wider selection of antique silver and goldsmithing to complement your collection, and contact any dealer directly to discuss a piece in detail.